Matthew Steeples reviews Chucs – He describes it as being “Mayfair’s answer to Venice’s Cip’s Club” and lauds its simple brilliance
If one had to compare Chucs in Mayfair’s Dover Street to a person, it would be Dickie Greenleaf from The Talented Mr Ripley. Debonair to its core, this minute restaurant is the personification of sophistication and styled in the fashion of a classic Riva.
Owned by a collective that includes a trio of ‘hedgies’ and the marketing maven Charles Finch, Chucs is far from cheap but given its location, you wouldn’t expect anything else. An all-day menu focuses on classic Italian dishes but also features a club sandwich (£15) and a burger (£16).
Having now dined at Chucs – which even has its own adjoining clothes store – on a couple of occasions, the highlights are most definitely the superb tagliolini cacio e pepe (£15/£20) and the cobb salad with chicken (£18). The latter delights and is presented in the form of a wheel that provides a cacophony of colour on the plate. My American companion was so delighted by it that she trilled: “In all my days of eating cobb salads, I’ve never seen something so spectacular”.
With other dishes including slow-cooked sea bass (£31) and beef fillet straccetti (£33), the menu is reminiscent of Cip’s Club in Venice. It is perfectly balanced to suit both casual and formal dining and with a team headed by the charming Lucio Mamprin, the service is second to none.
Wines start at £28 for a 2014 Rosso Piceno and £33 for a 2013 Muller-Thurgau and rise to £570 for a 1999 Chateau Mouton Rothschild. Dickie Greenleaf would certainly feel at home.
Chucs, 30b Dover Street, London, W1S 4NB. Telephone: +44 (0) 20 3763 2013.
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Wow! Just back from late lunch and have to say Thx Matthew. Lucia remembered us from eons ago at Cecconi. Sadle only Six tables so do not recommend to all your friends or you will never get in. Book ahead and go on the off hour as we did.
On your recommendation I took a small party for dinner last night.
Gorgeous gem of a place, lovely seating, very pleasant staff, but sadly absolutely appalling food.
I am surprised. On the numerous occasions I have been, it has always been consistently excellent.
What was wrong with the food?