Tag: Wine

  • The Royal Borough is alive with the taste of fondue

    The Royal Borough is alive with the taste of fondue

    An evening of fondue at Bodo’s Schloss in Kensington

     

    Bodo’s Schloss, a restaurant, bar and disco reminiscent of an Austrian alpine lodge, opened late last year and became an instant hit with the Chelsea set. For them and personalities such as Cameron Diaz and Gwyneth Paltrow, in fact, it’s rather like a little slice of Lech and Zürs has come to London.

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  • Judy Finnigan

    Judy Finnigan

    Judy FinniganThis former daytime television presenter is now a novelist who somewhat ambitiously compares herself to Dame Daphne du Maurier. Better known collectively with her second husband as just “Richard and Judy”, Judy Finnigan has been beset by rumours about her love of alcohol for many years. She didn’t exactly help put a stop to such by setting up a wine club whilst co-presenting Channel 4’s Richard & Judy show but having retreated to Cornwall to write, she now also “doesn’t want [to hear] comments about her looks anymore”. Here is an example of someone who would do well to follow the mantra of: “If you don’t like the heat, keep off the publicity trail”.

     

  • Taxes are only for the little people

    Taxes are only for the little people

    HMRC publish a list of tax evaders but neglect to mention any large corporations

     

    The hotelier and real estate heiress Leona Helmsley stated: “Taxes are only for the little people” before being convicted of income tax evasion in 1989.

     

    Leona Helmsley (1920 - 2007)
    Leona Helmsley (1920 – 2007)
    HMRC's list of deliberate tax defaulters published on 21st February 2013
    HMRC’s list of deliberate tax defaulters published on 21st February 2013

     

    Yesterday, Her Majesty’s Revenue and Customs published a list of names and addresses of nine individuals and companies who they describe as tax defaulters. Amongst the names on the list are a grocer, a hairdresser and a coach operator and the amounts owed range from £29,111 to £447,904.

     

    In response, Richard Murphy of Tax Research called the list of names: “Plain, straightforward hypocrisy”. He went on to state:

     

    “The people named are easy targets. There are clearly different categories of tax crime, with small businesses who put cash in HMRC’s pockets named and shamed; but banks, wealthy lawyers and global corporations offered anonymity. It seems that only little people pay tax and only little people are named and shamed”.

     

    Mr Murphy is quite right. Whilst these people may owe the taxman money, their activities are not in the league of the tax avoidance strategies of Starbucks, Google and Amazon.

     

    If HMRC don’t want to be placed in the same category as Leona Helmsley, they’d do well to change their ways. Instead they’d do better to focus on the true “aggressors” that David Cameron highlighted this week but sadly, that would probably just be too logical a strategy for this monolithic organisation to follow.

     

    View the HMRC list of 9 defaulters at: http://www.hmrc.gov.uk/defaulters/defaulters-list.pdf

     

    For a profile of Leona Helmsley, go to: http://thesteepletimes.com/tycoons/leona-helmsley-1920-2007/?position=14

  • The Hamptons: where the upper classes of New York holiday

    The Hamptons: where the upper classes of New York holiday

    Thomas James on the playground of the rich and famous that is The Hamptons

     

    A typical beach scene in the Hamptons

     

    One of the most popular guest features on the blog that preceded The Steeple Times was this article by Thomas James. The summer may well have passed along with Sandy and her might but as the article continues to attract vast numbers of hits, we thought we’d share it with you again this autumn day.

     

    The Hamptons is a beautiful coastal retreat with sandy beaches and vineyards, is home to premier pieces of real estate, and is known as the playground of the rich and famous.

     

    Generally speaking, it is an area of concentrated Manhattan wealth, as many New Yorkers have second and third homes there that are most commonly occupied during the summer months. The differing hamlets that create this wondrous land of lush gardens and luxury real estate possess a distinct atmosphere and attract different types of individuals.

     

    Sunset in the Hamptons

     

    East Hampton is the most coveted hamlet as it is dotted with world-class restaurants, well-known art galleries, and boutiques such as Blue and Cream. It is also home to the Hamptons International Film Festival.

     

    The residents of East Hampton are a culmination of celebrities, fashionable, and chic individuals such as Kelly Bensimon and Russell Simmons as well as those who are more traditional or preppy in nature – who tend to belong to the Maidstone Club. Models, celebrities, and socialites from Linday Lohan to Lauren Conrad flock to Lily Pond, a trendy nightclub in East Hampton featuring French crystal chandeliers and it becomes a massive VIP lounge for today’s youth to celebrate.

     

    Kelly Killoren Bensimon: a lady who terms herself an “author, jewelry designer, model, former editor of Elle Accessories and star of The Real Housewives of New York City”

     

    Art For Life is an annual benefit held at the home of Russell Simmons. The proceeds of Art For Life support art programs for New York City students. This soiree is a grand event as Russell Simmons has no limitations to his imagination and often amazing performance artists entertain guests. The event attracts celebrities, philanthropists and lovers of art.

     

    Hip-hop star Russell Simmons: co-founder of Def Jam and creator of Phat Farm, Argyleculture and American Classics

     

    As one strolls down Main Street after enjoying a memorable cup of coffee at Sant Ambroeus, one may bump into Ina Garten purchasing fresh vegetables at Citarella or a socialite shopping at Hermes.

     

    Southampton is similar to that of East Hampton as it is home to many chic restaurants and boutiques such as Stubbs and Wootton. Southampton has many social events throughout the year and is very Waspy in nature.

     

    The hamlet of Bridgehampton is known for the Hampton Classic, which is a highly anticipated equestrian riding event held annually. One may find solace venturing through Bridgehampton’s world-renowned vineyards in the early morning and later soaking up the fruity wines of Bridgehampton’s famed wineries.

     

    Hamptonites often flock to Pierre’s with friends in Bridgehampton for ideal French cuisine. “The atmosphere is cozy and intimate, elegant but relaxed, a place to see and to be seen.”

     

    Polo in the Hamptons
    Nacho Figueras: this top polo player is the face of Ralph Lauren’s Black line and often described as the “David Beckham of polo.” He’s a regular on the Hamptons social scene and married to photographer Deflina Blaquier.

     

    Many artists, writers, and actors are drawn to the hamlet of Watermill. Watermill has many riding stables, golf courses, and a polo team. The Watermill Center is a haven for artists who are free to explore, experiment, and express their ideas. The glamorous Watermill Gala is an end of summer fundraiser where eccentric performance artists are on display as partygoers are sipping their champagne.

     

    If one truly desires to step into the untouched beauty of the Hampton’s one usually ventures to Montauk. This hamlet is the farthest hamlet on the east end. The estates of prominent individuals line the shores of the Atlantic.

     

    Bernie and Ruth Madoff’s former holiday home in Montauk: 216 Old Montauk Highway, Montauk, NY 11954

     

    In 2009, Bernard and Ruth Madoff’s Montauk beach house was sold to an unidentified buyer. He and his former home penetrate one’s mind with an image of vulgar decadence. Surprisingly, the 4 bedroom, 3,014 square foot house, which sits on 1.2 acres, is a mere cottage amongst the typical mansions and estates. This classic beach house sits closer to the ocean than the neighboring homes of Ralph Lauren and Robert DeNiro, which was it’s major selling point as well as the unsurpassed views of Montauk’s untouched beauty. Bernie Madoff purchased the land and then built the home in 1979 for approximately $3 million but due to the exposure of his scam, the house was taken by the government in July 2009. Proceeds of the sale benefited victims of Bernie Madoff’s Ponzi scheme. It is now estimated to now be worth around $8 million.

     

    From Alec Baldwin, preserving the raw beauty found here, to local artists trying to capture the indescribable beauty of the east end, the Hamptons is a truly special place where lavish individuals harmonise beautifully with the lush nature found there.

     

    For more information on The Hamptons International Film Festival, go to: http://hamptonsfilmfest.org

     

    For details on The Hamptons Classic, go to: http://www.hamptonclassic.com

     

    For general information on the Hamptons, go to: http://www.hamptons.com or follow Hamptons.com on Twitter at: http://twitter.com/hamptons

     

    Read Niche Media LLC’s Hamptons magazine at: http://hamptons-magazine.com

     

    To read a blog dedicated to the Hamptons, go to: http://bloghamptons.com

     

    View Thomas (T.J.) James’s blog, The Gentledaneur, at: http://thegentleman-dandy-flaneur.tumblr.com Follow T.J. on Twitter at: http://www.twitter.com/thomasjames124

  • Fry's delight

    Fry's delight

    Andreas Kirchberger captures the atmosphere at a private view of the works of Robert Fry

     

    On Thursday 25th October, Ilona Pacia and Jesper Thomsen of Mews42 Gallery hosted a private view of the works of Robert Fry in Princes Gate, South Kensington.

     

    Artist Robert Fry pictured with exhibition sponsor Andrew Harding of Qube Property Management
    The exterior of Mews 42 Gallery, 42 Princes Gate Mews, London, SW7 2PR
    Robert Fry’s works on display at Mews42 Gallery

     

    Andreas Kirchberger was on hand on behalf of The Steeple Times and captured an exotic array of guests who numbered Bianca Boscu Brandinelli, Esther Osorio, Ivan Rosenschein, Alexander Batchvarov, David Stoddart, Marco Calmisani Calzorali, Zuqiang Lin, Oonagh Shanley-Toffolo, Aurelia Bonito, Wendy Coumantaros, Klas Nilsson, Georgina Budge and Robin Dutt.

     

     

    For those yet to discover his works, Robert Fry is a London based painter with an impressive CV. Born in 1980, he has already exhibited at the Saatchi Gallery and Alexia Goethe Arts & Co. in his home city, Moscow’s Atelier 2 and Los Angeles’s François Ghebaly Gallery.

     

    Fry is described as having an “obsession with the concepts of form and norm, symmetry and deformation and that of mutation and maturity.” Martin Coomer of Time Out suggests he leads us “back to Picasso via the spatial experiments and fine line of David Hockney” and adds that he has: “Found a fruitful way of using the traditional skills shunned by most artists of his age.”

     

    Robert Fry’s works are on show at Mews42 Gallery, 42 Princes Gate Mews, London, SW7 2PR until 2nd December 2012.

     

    Viewing is by appointment and can be arranged by telephoning +44 (0) 798 000 0264 or emailing Ilona Pacia at [email protected]. Website: http://www.mews42.com

     

    All images © Andreas Kirchberger/Photo-Factory 2012

  • Patricia Kluge (née Rose)

    Patricia Kluge (née Rose)

    The rise and fall of the “wealthiest divorcee in history” has been extraordinary. A former nude model for her first husband’s Knave magazine and star of adult films such as “The Nine Acres of Nakedness,” Patricia Kluge is the daughter of an Englishman and a Scots-Iraqi. She married her second husband, the late John Kluge, chairman of Metromedia and once the richest man in America, in 1981 after belly dancing for him at a dinner party in New York. As part of her plan to dovetail herself into the top drawer of American society, the couple built a 24,000 square foot mock 18th century English-style mansion, Albermarle, in Virginia and stuffed it full of Chippendale furniture. She got this as part of her $100 million divorce settlement in 1990 and wisely invested part of the payoff in a highly successful business trading football cards but then vanity struck. The Kluge Estate Winery project that she started with her third husband, William Moses, bankrupted the pair in June 2011 and the Bank of America foreclosed on her properties. A lifeline came from “longtime friend” Donald Trump who purchased the vineyard and employed her, but even he’s now uttered the words: “You’re fired!” and sent her packing. Of her newfound predicament Kluge commented: “What did we lose? Material things, nothing too important. When something like this happens you really see who your friends are, those you can rely on, and we have many friends.” Here is a lady with fortitude that can only be described as admirable. It’s probably best, however, to keep her away from the cash register.

  • Michael Collins: “What’s on your mantelpiece?”

    Michael Collins: “What’s on your mantelpiece?”

    The Steeple Times asks molecular cuisine guru and managing director of Bubble Food Michael Collins: “What’s on your mantelpiece?”

     

    The Steeple Times shares “wit and wisdom.” What’s your guiding force?

    Passion and creativity.

                                                                                           

    “Don’t get even, get medieval” is, in our humble opinion, a great motto. What’s yours?

    “Never put all your eggs in one basket.”

     

    Kerry Katona was considered unacceptable in 2007. Who or what is unacceptable in 2012?

    Bad hair.

     

    Tony Blair misses being Prime Minister. What do you miss most in your life?

    My mum’s home cooking.

     

    What might you swap all your wealth for?

    More money.

     

    Donald Trump was once a case of: “If you owe the bank a thousand, they close you down; but if you owe the bank a billion, you own the bank.” What’s your view on the banking crisis?

    The bubble had to burst at some point. I’m lucky as sticking to my motto meant that it didn’t affect me too much.

     

    What phrase or word do you most loathe?

    There is not really a phrase or word I loathe but I hate it when people give excuses.

     

    In the UK, some people consider charity to “begin at home.” What’s your view and what causes do you personally support?

    I support various good causes, both personally and through my company. I get very fed up with the street fundraisers with their clipboards who try to stop you every three paces to sign up to their charity.

     

    The judge in “Law Abiding Citizen” states: “I can pretty do whatever I want” before being blown up whilst answering her mobile phone. What’s your view on the appropriate use of such devices?

    I’m terrible. I couldn’t live without my phone.

     

    If you could fill a carriage on The Orient Express, who would be your fellow passengers?

    My lovely Bubble team. We would have lots of fun and do some teambuilding at the same time.

     

    Bubble Food’s Michael Collins

    If you were unfortunate enough to end up on death row, what would be your last meal and where would you eat it?

    I would go to The Ivy and have their amazing chicken korma.

     

    What time is it acceptable to consume the first drink of the day?

    11am: “gin and it” for elevenses.

     

    A Negroni, a martini or a cup of tea?

    A martini. We do a great “Pink Peppercorn Martini” at Bubble and for Christmas our head mixologist has created a “Snowing Black Forest Martini” complete with white chocolate snow. It’s delicious.

     

    Whose parties do you enjoy the most and why?

    My own because they’re full of all my favourite people and Bubble does the food and drinks. As a result, the guests seem to always be happy.

     

    Who is the most positive person you know?

    Betty White of Golden Girls fame. I love her.

     

    What’s your most guilty pleasure?

    Bubble’s head chef makes the most divine dessert. It’s a chocolate bubble containing salt toffee mousse, pomegranate and popping candy. Hot yoghurt sauce is poured over the bubble and it kind of implodes. Amazing.  I’ve been told it’s very low in calories though.

     

    If a tattoo were to sum you up, what would it be of?

    An eagle: It’d be serene and soaring high with prey in its talons.

     

    If you were a car, what marque would you be?

    A Lamborghini.

     

    Cilla Black presented “Surprise, Surprise.” Tell us the most surprising thing about you.

    Although I’ve been in the events and hospitality sector for over 15 years, I originally studied construction and trained as a chartered surveyor.

     

    What’s currently sitting on your mantelpiece?

    A nude picture of myself from when I first came to live in London.

     

     

    Michael Collins is the managing director of Bubble Food, one of London’s leading food design and events companies. The company specialises in molecular cuisine and their clients number Helena Bonham-Carter, Bella Freud and Jemima Khan.

     

    For more information about Bubble Food telephone +44 (0) 20 7703 2653 or go to: http://www.bubblefood.com

  • Blind dining

    Blind dining

    Christian Huhnt takes his first foray into the world of supper clubs

     

    I don’t usually find myself in the east of London. It’s not because I don’t like it but simply because it’s just an awful journey to get there from where I live. Eventually, though, a “secret” was able to convince me to make this long journey. This “secret,” I was told, could only be revealed to me if I “attended” it. Of what, you may ask, am I am rambling on about? I am talking of something called: “The Secret Supper Club.”

     

    Next, you’ll be asking: “What the heck is a ‘supper club’?” Well, in essence, a “supper club” is essentially a dinner in the company of a bunch of total randoms. It is a bit like blind dating, although you get to speak to many more people than just the one opposite you. As I had heard and read so much about supper clubs, I became very curious about attending one. Normally these gatherings happen in someone’s own home without any professional help, but the one to which I was invited was quite something else.

     

    Lime&Tonic’s Secret Supper Club

    This particular supper club is on another level. It is run by Lime&Tonic, an international firm of event planners and costs just £35 per head. Lime&Tonic made their philosophy to: “Save the world from boredom” according to its co-founder Stefan Cordiner and in the London supper club they operate I certainly found plenty that fascinated.

     

    The major idea of Lime&Tonic’s take on the supper club is to make new contacts. In this case it was as far reaching as it could get. We were 14 in total. None of us knew each other beforehand, but almost everyone came as a couple or with a friend. What, I realised, made it particularly special was how wide an array of people came: Where else would a pharmaceutical product developer from Birmingham have dinner with an F-15 pilot from the US?

     

    The “un-restaurant,” as it is also referred to by Lime&Tonic, happens every month at a “secret venue,” but never a private residence. The location is revealed to the attendees one day before the event. It’s usually held in a venue with a “unique feel” but wherever it may be, the focus is on somewhere with “authentic charm.”

     

    Suspense and surprise is the order of the day here as the “secret menu” is not revealed until guests sit down at the table either. On arrival we were told that our chef for the night was Paul Hannagen, a good-humoured young Irish professional who established his own catering operation, Cuisson, in August 2011. His passion for his craft was infectious.

     

    The one element of “surprise” that I found hard to deal with was the “bring your own” wine policy. Without knowing what would be served, how could I know what alcohol my wine buff companion ought to choose?

     

    The food itself, though, was delightful. We started with some small ‘lollipops’ stuffed with chicken liver and chunks of apple as an amuse-bouche. This was followed by a ham that had been cooked for 36 hours and served in a “British farmer’s style” with mini-cauliflower, sliced carrots, a rocket salad and a truly wonderful chutney. For a main we were served salmon, cooked  “hot and cold” on one side only at 44.5°C in basil oil served with marinated prawns, mashed potatoes and broccoli. It was a great dish but perhaps a little more salt could have made it perfect. The final course, equally, was a delight: chocolate fudge with Baileys ice cream and salted caramel. I was in heaven.

     

    In general, Hannagen’s approach to slow cooking and his use of local produce reminded me very much of that of Jason Atherton at Pollen Street Social. I was therefore not surprised when he later told me that Atherton was his mentor. He did a great job and my companion and I agreed that he deserves huge success.

     

    The meal over, we ended up downing Patrón XO Cafe shots together while happily exchanging numbers. Though I may have been sceptical in the beginning, this concept is brilliant. I am very much looking forward to attend the next Secret Supper Club soon.

     

    For more details about Lime&Tonic and their supper clubs, go to: http://www.limeandtonic.com/london/en/

     

    For more details about Paul Cuisson, go to: http://www.cuisson.co.uk

  • Sir Benjamin Slade Bt.: “What’s on your mantelpiece?”

    Sir Benjamin Slade Bt.: “What’s on your mantelpiece?”

    The Steeple Times asks the right-wing businessman and owner of Maunsel House and Woodlands Castle, Sir Benjamin Slade: “What’s on your mantelpiece?”

     

    The Steeple Times shares “wit and wisdom.” What’s your guiding force?

    Money, power, sex, success, land, trees, books and fine wine.

     

    “Don’t get even, get medieval” is, in our humble opinion, a great motto. What’s yours?

    “If it f**ks, floats or flies: Rent it, don’t buy it and don’t marry it!”

     

    Kerry Katona was considered unacceptable in 2007. Who or what is unacceptable in 2012?

    David Cameron and Sir Mervyn King.

     

    Tony Blair misses being Prime Minister. What do you miss most in your life?

    Being in London full-time.

     

    What might you swap all your wealth for?

    Good health and two healthy sons.

     

    Donald Trump was once a case of: “If you owe the bank a thousand, they close you down; but if you owe the bank a billion, you own the bank.” What’s your view on the banking crisis?

    It’s like putting bartenders on commission and allowing them to give credit to alcoholics who die and go bankrupt.

     

    What phrase or word do you most loathe?

    I’ve got three: 1. “Sustainability.” 2. “Stakeholder.” 3. “Human rights.”

     

    In the UK, some people consider charity to “begin at home.” What’s your view and what causes do you personally support?

    UKIP and Help for Heroes.

     

    The judge in “Law Abiding Citizen” states: “I can pretty do whatever I want” before being blown up whilst answering her mobile phone. What’s your view on the appropriate use of such devices?

    They are useful for ringing up if late, doing deals and arranging dinners with girls.

     

    If you could fill a carriage on The Orient Express, who would be your fellow passengers?

    Warren Buffett, Bobby Faber, Philip Gibbs, Bettany Hughes, Brian Kingham, Lady Kitchener-Fellowes, Francis Fulford, Robert Lyle, Sir John Madejski, David Ord, General Sir Michael Rose, Roger Seelig, Alexander Stockton, Jonathan Sumption PC, Norman Tebbit, Lord Westbury, the Duke of Westminster and Mrs William Worsley.  Adrian de Ferranti can sit in the luggage car and serve wine.

     

    Sir Benjamin Slade Bt.

    If you were unfortunate enough to end up on death row, what would be your last meal and where would you eat it?

    It’d have to be at La Tour d’Argent in Paris.

     

    What time is it acceptable to consume the first drink of the day?

    1pm and 6pm.

     

    A Negroni, a martini or a cup of tea?

    Green tea.

     

    Whose parties do you enjoy the most and why?

    Sotheby’s and Christie’s and those hosted by Liz Floyd and Philip Gibbs.

     

    Who is the most positive person you know?

    My friend Bobby Faber.

     

    What’s your most guilty pleasure?

    Drinking claret at £100 per bottle.

     

    If a tattoo were to sum you up, what would it be of?

    A big castle with lots of walnut trees, good books and bottles of wine. And girls’ hips.

     

    If you were a car, what marque would you be?

    A Ford Fiesta.

     

    Cilla Black presented “Surprise, Surprise.” Tell us the most surprising thing about you.

    I’m self-made, have a great knowledge of history and am a seriously good doctor with over 120 patients. And, you’ll be surprised to learn that I was a spy in the Middle East for Britain.

     

    What’s currently sitting on your mantelpiece?

    Tankards, invites, various Mouser and Walther pistols, cows horns, Roman artifacts, decanters, pewter cups, silver, an 18th century bottle of port and a Russian machine gun.

     

    Maunsel House, North Newton, Near Taunton, Somerset, TA7 0BU. Telephone: +44 (0) 1278 661076. Website: http://www.maunselhouse.co.uk

     

    Woodlands Castle, Ruishton, Taunton, Somerset, TA3 5LU. Telephone: +44 (0) 1823 444955. Website: http://www.woodlandscastle.co.uk

     

    Read Sir Benjamin Slade’s blog at: http://sirbenslade.blogspot.co.uk/ and follow him on Twitter at: http://www.twitter.com/sirbenslade

  • The perils of fusion

    The perils of fusion

    Christian Huhnt reports on recent changes at Cassis restaurant

     

    As I work in the arts and also collect wines, I find Cassis Bistro in South Kensington most comfortable as here I find myself surrounded by great works by Julian Opie, Gary Hume and Henri Matisse alongside as a humongous and well-stocked wine rack at the back of the restaurant. Cassis is part of Marlon Abela’s restaurant group, Marc, which also includes The Greenhouse, Umu, Morello Bistro and Morton’s.

     

    Cassis Bistro’s decor cleverly combines wine and art
    Party guests at Cassis Bistro, 232 – 236 Brompton Road, London, SW3 2BB

    It was with anticipation, therefore, that I accepted an invitation to celebrate the arrival of Cassis’s new head chef, “le nouveau moteur de cuisine,” Massimiliano Blasone. Wait a minute: “Blasone”? That doesn’t sound to French to me. And indeed, he isn’t. This Italian chef made his name at Heinz Beck’s Michelin-starred Apsleys at The Lanesborough Hotel on Hyde Park Corner.

     

    The first thing that I asked myself was: “What is an Italian chef doing in a French kitchen?” More importantly: “What is an Italian chef doing in a restaurant that has made its goal,” according to their own marketing material, “to deliver: The finest Provençal cuisine in London?”

     

    A leaflet promoting the “Provençal” cuisine on offer at Cassis

    After consulting the restaurant’s PR she told me the new idea is to “cook Provençal cuisine with an Italian influence.” What the heck? Why not add a Nigerian limbo dancer making sushi or a Muslim serving pork pies?

     

    Continuing, she told me that the former chef had left as he’d decided to open his own restaurant. I recall once having a delightful lunch when that particular chef was still at Cassis, roughly one year ago, and remember how tasteful and typically Provençal it actually was.

     

    Starting, as ever, with the drinks, I let the waiter choose my first one. He gave me a “Cassis Collins” which is supposedly the house cocktail. A mix of gin, crème de cassis soda, blackcurrant purée and lemon juice. Sadly, I could only really taste the lemon and overall it was too watery. It tasted as if it had been mixed 30-minutes prior to my arrival.

     

    Jessica Patterson and Steffen Timm at Cassis

    I quickly changed to an Italian classic, a Negroni, which was strong but cool. This was far more impressive. Steffen Timm, my companion and food connoisseur, went for a non-alcoholic cocktail with the notion to spare his palate for tasting the food later on, but while sipping at it he almost got a sugar shock and therefore turned to the booze too.

     

    While sat at the bar, I found myself surrounded by some delightful locals and regulars. Things were most definitely on the up. After nibbling one grissini after another, finally the food arrived, but it came at such a speed that I struggled to keep up. Not even finished with a typically Italian dish of tagliatelle con tartufo bianco, the kind waiter offered me some superb raw tuna served in a Middle East Asian style with bulgur. Having barely swallowed this, the next dishes presented to me were a pumpkin tortellini with truffles, followed by oysters with sour cream and cucumber. Quail’s eggs with truffles, a lamb saddle with ratatouille (which was probably the only ‘kind-of-Provençal’ canapé) and finally some perfectly made risotto with yet more truffles brought things to a crescendo. My love affair with truffles is well known and some readers may recall my sharing that with you in my review of Honky Tonk. I must say, however, that this particular dish was more reminiscent of something that one might find in a chic restaurant in St Tropez than in the Provençal settings I am used to.

     

    Provençal-style lamb saddle with ratatouille

     

    Although Cassis is delightful and I enjoyed an evening of conversation and company, sadly, this new kitchen seems to have lost its ethos and now lacks the authentic Provençal character that made it so good. I urge the management to return to the quintessentially rustic and traditional roots that first made the place so appealing.

     

    Cassis Bistro, 232 – 236 Brompton Road, London, SW3 2BB. Telephone: +44 (0) 20 7581 1101. Website: http://www.cassisbistro.co.uk